Month: June 2023

How to get to the British Virgin Islands?

There are four ways for most travelers to get to the British Virgin Islands.

The best way? Take my advice: fly to neighboring St. Thomas, USVI and ride a short, private water taxi directly to your destination. You’ll get there faster, you’ll avoid long, sweaty customs lines, and you get to enjoy a cold beverage while taking in the island views, in style.

The British Virgin Islands is not the easiest of the Caribbean destinations to get to. In fact, you often have to jump through hoops and commit to a full day of travel on each end of your trip.

Why?

A lot of it stems from the length of the runway at the Beef Island, Terrance Lettsome airport (EIS). It’s not long enough to support big aircraft, and there is little room to expand.

So in most cases you have another leg, by sea or air, from a neighboring island. Until June 2023, there were no direct flights to EIS from the US mainland (AA just launched a Miami route, but it had a rough start).

So how to get to the British Virgin Islands? There are four ways for most. Here I rank them from best to worst.

Fly to St. Thomas (STT) and take a private water taxi
Fly to the St. Thomas airport and take the public ferry to the British Virgin Islands
Direct flight from Miami using the new (introduced in June 2023) American Airlines route
Fly to a nearby island, such as San Juan, Puerto Rico (SJU), and take a short connecting flight

Let’s jump in.

Baller option: fly to St. Thomas (STT) and take a private water taxi

OK it’s not quite the same as flying private, but it’s worth it if you have room in the budget.

First off – fly to St. Thomas in the US Virgin Islands. It’s literally right next door and only 15 miles away.

The St. Thomas, USVI runway is several thousand feet longer and supports many larger aircraft. Since it’s a US territory, there are also many nonstop, direct flights from the US per day. Miami, Atlanta, and JFK are a few of the airports you can connect from.

Take a 30 minute taxi to Red Hook where your private taxi will be waiting to whisk you away to paradise. Check availability with companies like Chillout Charters, Island Time, and Dolphin Water Taxi. Book early.

They’ll have cold beverages aboard so you can get your vacation started. The first stop will be to clear through BVI customs – usually Soper’s Hole on the West End, but it could be elsewhere depending on your final destination. It’s a 20 minute trip.

Your skipper will handle the paperwork while you wait aboard. Usually it takes 20-30 minutes, but it can vary.

Next, they’ll drop you as close to your final destination as possible. This is convenient for many charter crews since they can unload at any of the marinas.

Why the private water taxi might not be for you

It’s expensive – be prepared to shell out ~$1,500. And, if you have a large crew, 10+, you might need a second taxi.

Lastly, if you have a late afternoon flight arrival, you will probably need to go to Road Town to clear customs. Expect this to take a bit longer.

charlotte amalie in the USVI — Charlotte Amalie, where you'll pick up the ferry to Road Town, BVI

Best for most: Fly to St. Thomas and take the public ferry from Charlotte Amalie

This is similar to the private water taxi option, but instead of going to Red Hook, take a 10 minute taxi to the public ferry dock at Charlotte Amalie.

There are three operators that share the Charlotte Amalie – Road Town, Tortola route. While you might find a consolidated schedule online, it’s best to check directly with each operator for the latest schedule information.

Pro tip: while you wait at the Charlotte Amalie ferry dock, head upstairs to the Petit Pump, grab a cocktail, and watch the seaplanes take off and land nearby.

The trip takes about 50 minutes each way. Once you arrive you’ll clear customs. Usually it should take no more than 30 minutes.

That’s it – take a taxi to your final destination. There are also other ferry connections you can take if you are staying on another island, such as Virgin Gorda.

What you should know about the public ferry

You’ll need to pay $10-20 per bag (up to 50 pounds).

The ferry schedules can experience abrupt changes or cancellations – keep a close eye.

Buy one-way tickets on the next available ferry – there’s a good chance you’ll need to use two different operators.

The newer American Airlines route landing at Beef Island, BVI

The unproven option: fly direct from Miami to Beef Island

While the American Airlines’ direct flight from Miami had a rough start, I am hoping it works out. This would be far more convenient for some – saving an extra taxi and ferry ride.

But, it has yet to be proven reliable.

An unfavorable wind forecast can always disrupt the route, forcing AA to shed weight on the flight. This means some passengers and/or luggage is going to get bumped.

Another reason you might not like this option? It’s expensive – expect to pay several hundred extra bucks for a ticket. It might be comparable in price just to take a private water taxi to the British Virgin Islands.

Cape Air Cessnas, one of your options for how to get to the British Virgin Islands

Worst option: fly to a nearby island such as Puerto Rico, and take a short connecting flight to BVI

This is by far your worst option. Avoid it at all costs. I’ve done it and got lucky, but many crews don’t have it so easy.

Due to the short runway at BVI, connecting flights from neighboring islands such as San Juan, Puerto Rico are run by smaller regional airlines, such as Silver Airways, Seaborne Airlines, InterCaribbean, and Cape Air.

As a whole, these routes are plagued by schedule delays, lost luggage, and poor customer service.

You can try it, but you’re playing with fire.

BVI

Exumas Cruising Guide: Our Favorite Bahamas Sailing Destination

We first visited the Exuma cays back in 2018 on a bareboat charter and wow!! It is nothing like the Virgin Islands where we had done most of our prior sailing.

I mean this in a very very good way – shallow water sailing amidst unbelievable shades of blue, remote and pristine natural beauty, sandbars galore, solitude, and of course – serious fishing.

We recently visited the Exumas again, so I took some time to collect my thoughts on this top notch charter destination. Here’s the full trip report with lots of pictures.

To begin, it is not a place for beginner captains – weather, anchoring, tides, and cuts present unique challenges. It helps to have experience on the water. The British Virgin Islands, for example, is well-suited for a first time sailing trip.

Here’s what you need to know. After you get through the basics, I include a sample sailing itinerary that I would use for a first-time visit to the Exumas. Visit my Exumas page for even more information about this charter destination.

Let’s get to it.

Palm Cay sunset, the Exuma bareboat charter base — Great sunset at the Palm Cay Marina

One of the benefits of a yacht charter in the Exumas, Bahamas is the proximity to the U.S. mainland. All the major bareboat charter operators are based in Palm Cay Marina in Nassau, New Providence. I’ve chartered with them all and can help you make the right yacht and charter company decision for your next trip. Learn more here.

Many short, direct flights are available from cities such as Houston, Texas and Miami, Florida. You’ll be settled into your sailboat with a cocktail before the sun goes down.

It’s about a 45 minute trip to Palm Cay from the airport. You can either grab a taxi or arrange for a shuttle with your charter company. Palm Cay is conveniently located on the southeast side of the island – a perfect jumping off point to cross over the Yellow Bank to the Exumas island chain.

Provisioning

We recommend provisioning with your charter company. They can provide you with a food and beverage list that will have most of what you will need. Expect an occasional substitution as well. When you arrive, your food and beverages will already be aboard your yacht. What’s not to like about that!

If you prefer to do your own shopping, Solomon’s is a well-stocked supermarket located about a mile from Palm Cay. Cars are available from the marina to rent, or you can take a taxi.

Prices are expensive…as they are elsewhere in the Caribbean! Expect to pay ~$50 for a case of beer, for example. Rum is much cheaper though!

Provision well, since there are limited opportunities to re-stock as you head south. Staniel Cay or Blackpoint are your best options. Marinas at Highbourne Cay and Compass Cay have smaller stores with more limited selections.

Exumas Bahamas cruising guide resources

The Navionics Boating App is great for planning. Sketch out and research potential routes, fishing spots, and anchorages. ActiveCaptain Community is part of it and is a helpful feature to get additional information direct from other cruisers.

Your charter yacht should come with a recent edition of the Explorer Chartbook – Exumas and Ragged Islands. It’s the gold standard as far as Bahamas charts go.

I often use it before to help plan our sailing itinerary. If you want to purchase it ahead of time, you can get it here:

Stephen Pavlidis puts out a cruising guide with some very valuable information. It has more commentary such as where to go fishing the drop in the Bahamas Sound (he recommends from Sail Rocks to Highbourne Cay).

He also includes his own chart sketches to help with navigation. Keep in mind though, that the most recent edition is from 2015. Better to trust the Explorer Chartbook, electronics, and most importantly, visual navigation techniques. You can pick up a copy here:

Exumas cruising conditions

The Exumas are a long string of 365 islands, stretching over 100 miles from the Sail Rocks in the north all the way down to Great Exuma in the southeast.

That’s a long way to travel for a week long vacation! It is too far to go all the way down and back in a week. Here are your options:

Explore the northern Exumas, turning around near Staniel Cay (this is what we recommend!). There is so much to explore that you won’t miss out by missing the southern Exumas.
Do a one way trip from Great Exuma to Nassau. This takes advantage or the prevailing trade winds out of the east – enjoy that downwind sailing. It does, however, complicate provisioning since Great Exuma is not as well stocked. You will also need to coordinate extra logistics to travel to Georgetown for the start of your trip.
One way from Nassau to Great Exuma. This makes provisioning easier, but you are more likely to sail to windward.

For the purposes of this cruising guide, we focus on the northern half of the Exumas. If you have more time, consider this 10-day roundtrip itinerary.

Halls Pond Cay in the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park — Halls Pond Cay in the Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park

When to sail in the Exumas?

My favorite time of year to go is April-May. Here’s why:

Consistent trade winds blow out of the east to southeast, allowing for more settled cruising conditions
Cold fronts are not as common. This means fewer squalls and potential exposure to westerly/northerly winds
Days are longer, giving you more time for fun on the water
Although early tropical activity can occur, it is far less likely
It’s less busy since many of the full-time cruisers have begun to leave the area in preparation for hurricane season

November to December can also be a good time to go – the weather is often pleasant. Keep in mind that cold fronts do sweep down from the west. This can occur as early as October. You’ll need to pay close attention to the weather forecast and have some flexibility with your itinerary.

In the winter months (January to March) cold fronts march in like clockwork. Be prepared for squalls and winds in excess of 20 knots.

We would avoid the summer months since it can be very hot/humid, the winds are light, and there is always the risk of tropical activity and trip disruption.

Sandy Cany sandbar in the Exumas — The many shades of Exuma blues at the Sandy Cay sandbar

Sailing conditions in the Exuma

Sailing in the Exumas is not for beginners – you need to understand tides, conduct weather planning, and navigate by reading the color of the water. Few mooring balls are available, so you should also be comfortable anchoring almost everywhere (the good news is that the holding is generally very good!).

Wind

The trade winds blow somewhat consistently unless interrupted by fall/winter cold fronts and tropical disturbances in the summer.

In the winter, the trades blow more from the NE. In the summer, they are more frequently from the SE.

downwind sailing in the Exumas — SE winds allowed for some easy downwind sailing as we headed back north

Exuma Bank vs. Exuma Sound

You’ll likely spend most of your time cruising on the west side, on the Exuma Bank. Depths are ~20 feet making for incredible shades of turquoise blue. You also get great protection from the easterly trades, so even with fresh breezes – swells stay to a minimum!

Exuma Sound is the deep side to the east of the Exumas. Reefs mark the edge with many cuts allowing for passage in between. In some places, such as the Dog Cays in the north, the drop plunges to thousands of feet only a couple hundred feet off shore.

The Exuma Sound is where you want to go fishing for the pelagic fish – mahi, tuna, and wahoo. I recommend sailing NW (instead of SE) in the Exuma Sound due to the prevailing trades – you are less likely to encounter swells on your bow. Keep that crew happy!

Exuma cut with a changing tide — Even in calm conditions, opposing tidal flow and trade winds can cause washing machine conditions in the cuts

Tides and Cuts

You will want to pay close attention to the tides due to many shallow anchorages and passages. In general, the tidal range is ~3.5 feet, but can be higher during, for example, Spring tides. In this case, depths at low tide could be below the ones indicated on the charts (MLLW).

I like to print off the latest prediction from NOAA, which provides the tides for Nassau.

In the northern Exumas, the tides will be around 20 minutes later than Nassau
Around Staniel Cay, you can expect the tides to be about 30 minutes later than Nassau

The numerous cuts between Exuma Sound and Exuma Bank can rip when the tide is flowing. They can be especially treacherous when the wind blows against the direction of the flow. Try and time any passages you make for a period of slack tide.

Charts, especially the Explorer Chart, should be studied carefully. They’ll provide good advice on the preferred cuts to pass through (some are much wider and easier than others).

Anchorages

The majority of anchorages are located with protection from the easterly trades. I’ve found that holding is generally very good with white sandy bottoms. Coral or rock bottoms can be found in areas more affected by the cuts/tidal flow, so keep that in mind.

Use of mooring balls is mainly limited to those available in the Exumas Land and Sea Park. Expect to anchor most everywhere else.

I talk about my favorite Exuma anchorages in this post.

Compass Cay anchorage in the Exuma Bahamas — At yet another secluded Exumas anchroage - this one outside the Compass Cay Marina

Exumas sailing itinerary: the perfect plan for a week in the islands

Our itinerary plans for 7 days on the water and begins at Palm Cay. As we mentioned earlier, we’ll plan for a “there and back” route with the turnaround point at Staniel Cay.

You might also want to check out my roundtrip, 10-day Exuma sailing itinerary plan.

Day 1: Overnight in Palm Cay Marina

After arriving at the airport, you should be at Palm Cay in under an hour. We usually plan to spend the first night on the boat, but you might also check out the villas that are available.

Unpack, finish your provisioning, and settle in for an enjoyable evening at the Marina. This might be a good chance to dine out since there are not many options available in the Exumas.

The Pink Octopus is a short walk from the marina where you can try some local Bahamian dishes. It’s also located next to the Beach Club where you can grab a cocktail. Check out the pool if you get in early enough!

Day 2: Yellow Banks crossing and Highbourne Cay

Stand up paddleboarding in the Exumas — Enjoying some SUPing in calm conditions after a crossing of the Yellow Banks

Get a start as early as you can! It’s a long day on the water (~35 nautical miles).

The Yellow Banks is a shallower area mid-way between Nassau and the northern Exumas with many coral heads. But, it’s scarier than it sounds.

With the sun overhead, the coral heads are very easily seen and avoided. Many are marked on charts. If you head for a waypoint south of Beacon Cay, you will also encounter far fewer coral heads. This works for us since we plan to stay at Highbourne Cay on our first night.

It the weather is settled, it’s fun to stop mid-way for lunch on the Yellow Banks. Toss out the anchor in 10-15 feet of water, and enjoy a snorkel of a nearby coral head. Perhaps you’ll find some Bahamian lobster for dinner (lobster season runs August 1 – March 31)! Snorkeling may be difficult if the tides are running – exercise caution.

Highbourne Cay is a convenient first night stop. I like the West Beach anchorage. Avoid the Highbourne Rocks reef on your approach, and anchor in 10-15 of sand.

Near your anchorage, the beach is beautiful and is great for an evening stroll. The Highbourne Rocks also offers great snorkeling.

Crack a beer and enjoy the view – it doesn’t get any better than this. You’ve arrived in paradise.

If you want to venture out farther, you can dinghy ~2 miles to Allen’s Cay to explore the local species of iguanas (this is also a great Day 3 morning activity).

Highbourne Cay marina is a short dinghy ride. They have a store, restaurant, and other amenities. Check out their visitor and snorkeling guide available on the website.

Day 3: South to the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park

Enjoying the sunset at the Pirate's Lair anchorage at Warderick Wells

This is another day with a few hours on the water. It’s ~20-25 nautical miles south to the anchorages or mooring fields in the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park.

If the weather is settled, consider using one of the cuts to enter the Exuma Sound for some deep water fishing. If you go in the fall, it’s a great time to catch some wahoo – my favorite eating fish. Check out our sailboat fishing guide for some advice or my more specific Exuma fishing tips post.

Northern Exumas Wahoo — Make sure you save some time to fish the drop in the Exuma Sound!

As you head south, be aware of the no-fishing zone that protects the park boundaries. The park is strictly a no take zone: no fishing, conching, shelling, or lobstering.

The Sea Park is huge, with over 170 square miles. It’s an ecological reserve and marine sanctuary – you won’t be disappointed by the snorkeling here.

We recommend grabbing a mooring ball in the Emerald Rock mooring field. When you are within range, call “Exuma Park” on channel 9 to check ball availability. Once you’ve taken one notify them.

You can pay the $35 mooring ball fee at the Visitor Center. They also might send around a boat to collect the fees.

The Emerald Rock area is near a couple beautiful white sand beaches and has trail access to the wonderful hiking on Warderick Wells. Make a quick dinghy ride over to the visitors center to snap a picture with the whale skeleton. They can give you a trail map too.

Boo Boo Hill is a popular destination and the highest point on the cay. It’s tradition for cruisers to leave a piece of driftwood behind with your boat’s name on it.

Day 4: Thunderball Grotto and swimming pigs

Staniel Cay Anchorage — Anchorage at Staniel Cay - Thunderball Grotto is the first cay to the left

Continue making your way south towards the anchorage at Big Major Cay.

Sandy Cay is a fun lunch stop close by with one of my favorite sandbars. Anchor on the west side and head ashore for a picnic!

Big Major Cay is the location of the famous swimming pigs. Some words of caution: this is a busy anchorage, so if you’re looking for more solitude, check out Between the Majors anchorage (more advanced anchoring) or Bitter Guana Cay a bit farther south.

Pig beach is fun to see once, but it isn’t a place we’ll need to return. Go get your pictures while swimming with the pigs if you decide to stop here.

The other famous attraction in the area is Thunderball Grotto. It’s an amazing cave snorkel featured in the James Bond movie Thunderball. It’s a short dinghy ride over from Big Major Cay. Otherwise, there are several places to anchor your yacht nearby. Try and plan your visit for slack tide.

Don’t miss your chance to do some re-provisioning and dump some trash. Use the government dock to access two of the nearby grocery stores.

The Staniel Cay Yacht Club is the biggest establishment you’ll come across in this part of the Exumas. We like to plan a meal ashore here, for either lunch or dinner. At a minimum you’ll want to try out their SCYC original – the Peanut Colada.

Note: New as of March 2021, the SCYC now operates 21 mooring balls nearby. Check out the map here. Rates start at $40/night.

Day 5: Back north to Compass Cay

Crescent Beach Compass Cay — We caught a great rainbow on our recent visit to Crescent Beach

Again, if the weather is looking good – head out to the Exuma Sound and do some fishing as you head back north. If the trade winds are from the east, you should have some following seas to please the crew.

Compass cay is a short 1-2 hour sail. You have a few options for anchoring. I like the Compass Cay (Outer Anchorage) since it is less affected by the tides.

If you want more of a challenge, check out the many options at Pipe Cay. It’s a maze of sandbars and one of the most beautiful areas in the Exumas.

Compass Cay Marina is worth a visit. Get your pictures with the nurse sharks and check out the trails on the cay. Crescent Beach on the east side is said to be one of the finest beaches in the world. Note that you’ll have to pay a landing fee for your dinghy and crew.

Day 6: Shroud Cay and the magical river ride

Shroud cay anchorage and the mangrove river — Shroud Cay anchorage with the mangrove river in the background

Today is a longer day on the water – around 25 nautical miles or so. We are heading to Shroud Cay – one of my favorite stops!

You have a few options for anchoring – check out the charts. If you have a shallow draft vessel, try North Shroud Cay which puts you very close to Sanctuary Creek.

The Sanctuary Creek dinghy ride is an absolute must for any Exumas visit. The mangrove “river” is full of sea life such as turtles and rays. On other other side is the absolutely stunning Driftwood Beach and Camp Driftwood.

You are permitted to motor at idle-speed. PLEASE NOTE: you need to check the tides and begin this river ride on a mid, rising tide. This will give you time to explore and avoid being stranded. The river is only passable on a mid or high tide.

Beach your dinghy, and enjoy a ride or two on the water slide. Here’s a video of us enjoying it on a recent trip.

Camp Driftwood is worth exploring, so bring some walking shoes. It was built in the 1960s by a hermit who lived there with his sailboat. The camp was later used by the DEA to conduct reconnaissance on the drug kingpin Carlos Lehder’s operation at Norman Cay.

Make sure you don’t get stranded! Head back to your yacht on a flooding tide and enjoy another spectacular Bahamian sunset.

Note: depending on the tides, it may make more sense to ride the river the next morning, on Day 7.

Day 7: Final day optionality

Sail Rocks North anchorage sunset — Enjoying the sunset at the Sail Rocks North anchorage

You have a few options for a final day in the Exumas – each of these is a logical jumping off spot to make the crossing back to Nassau the next day.

Norman’s Cay

The main attraction here is the sunken drug plane from Carlos Lehder’s activities in the 1970s. If you want to snorkel it, try and do so at slack tide.

Macduff’s is a quaint restaurant ashore which seems like it is in the middle or nowhere. You may want to radio ahead for reservations if you plan to eat there for dinner.

Anchoring is easy on the west side of the cay. You can also anchor in the cut closer to the sunken plane – you will swing on the tide, so be prepared.

Construction activity could be from a company that is doing a large-scale development of the island.

Highbourne Cay

Check out the information under Day 2.

Allen’s Cay

This is the location for the local species of iguanas. There are numerous anchorages marked on the charts. Be prepared to share the area with tour boats depending on when you arrive.

Sail Rocks North

This is a settled weather anchorage that we visited on our most recent trip. If you want to get away from the crowds and fish the northern drop, this is the place to be.

Day 8: Crossing back to Palm Cay

Hopefully the wind gods cooperate and give you some great, downwind sailing. The first time we made this crossing back to Nassau, we had 5 knots directly behind us – no fun!

If you weren’t able to have a lunch stop at a coral head, give it a shot.

You may either return to the Palm Cay marina and enjoy the amenities, or, head over to Rose Island if you prefer another night on the hook. Make sure you plan for time in the morning to return and go through check-out procedures – it’s about an hour’s motor.

Sandy Toes is a excursion-focused bar at Rose Island. There are mixed reports of whether they permit cruisers to come ashore.

Exuma Top

American Airlines’ new BVI route has rough start

I recently wrote about how the vibe in the British Virgin Islands is changing, from 5 key developments that are underway.

Number 3 on that list? Travelling to the BVIs is becoming more difficult.

Enter American Airlines. Last week, they achieved a big milestone, landing the first nonstop flight from the U.S. to the BVI airport at Beef Island.

However, a few things have already happened that took the wind out of AA’s sails.

First direct flight lands in BVI from Miami | source: BVI News

A rough start for American Airlines in the British Virgin Islands

If you haven’t been following along with the drama, here is a timeline of events for AA’s new daily route to BVI:

May 25: AA successfully completes a test run
May 26: the EIS airport is closed due to staffing issues in the control tower, stranding many charter crews
June 1: the first flight with passengers arrives!
June 3: AA is delayed by 3 hours when a cargo plane blew a tire on the runway at Beef Island
June 4: the AA plane is weight restricted due to a southerly wind, hot temperatures, and a shorter runway. The flight is delayed and some passengers are deplaned as well as all of the luggage. No hotel vouchers were provided since it was weather related!
June 5: due to the southerly wind again, the flight has to make a pit stop in Puerto Rico for fuel

Ouch.

While the closure and cargo plane were out of their control, American will always have to contend with an unfavorable wind forecast. Hopefully these events do not test AA’s resolve and they stick with plans for 1-2 daily flights during the charter season.

Perhaps the BVI government should hold off on that $250,000 concert they are planning as a celebration for the new route.

A better way to get to BVI

It’s always been about jumping through hoops to get to BVI. There is no simple way to do it. Buckle up for a full day of travel.

Even with the addition of the AA route, that only solves for 80 passengers per flight. Larger aircraft can’t make the trip because of the short runway.

I’ve done it before, but I will no longer fly to BVI. Here are the other ways to get to the British Virgin Islands.

The AA route is pricey, and I also don’t trust the regional carriers with connections from Puerto Rico. Some of them are struggling, such as Silver Airlines which was recently facing eviction from Fort Lauderdale due to a debt.

Instead, take a direct flight to STT, offered multiple times a day from Miami, New York, Atlanta, and others. Flight delayed or cancelled? You still have a chance to get on another flight that day.

Many people swear by the Charlotte Amalie public ferry as a reliable way to arrive.

Better yet, if it’s in the budget, book a private water taxi. Here’s how it works:

Taxi from STT to Red Hook
Board right away
Crack a cold beer and enjoy the ride
Your crew will clear customs while you stay on the boat
They deliver you directly to your marina of choice

Hard to beat, but a couple words of caution. You’ll pay up for this option – generally ~$1,250+. Secondly, some taxis can only fit 6 passengers, which might not work for a larger crew.

BVI