Viajes en Yate por Italia

Your charter begins at Marina di Olbia, a fifteen-minute taxi ride from Olbia (OLB) airport on Sardinia's northeast coast. Your captain and chef meet you on the dock, walk you through the yacht, stow the luggage, and cover the chart for the days ahead — including the strait-crossing day mid-week, which the captain will time around the morning's Mistral forecast. The marina is deep-water capable for any size yacht, and the early afternoon is yours to settle in.

Once provisioning is squared away, lines off for the short sixteen-nautical-mile run northeast around Capo Figari and into the southern end of the Costa Smeralda. The Costa Smeralda is the most concentrated stretch of granite coastline in the Mediterranean — sixty kilometers from Cape Figari to Santa Teresa Gallura, with anchorages tucked into pockets of pink granite every two or three miles. Pevero Bay sits just south of Porto Cervo, framed by two white sandy beaches and protected from any direction the Mistral might be blowing.

First night at anchor in Pevero. Chef-prepared welcome dinner on the aft deck — bottarga di Olbia grated over fregola sarda with clams, a glass of Vermentino di Gallura from the granite-soil vineyards a few miles inland, and the lights of the Hotel Cala di Volpe across the bay coming on after sunset. The Mistral, if it's blowing, drops at dusk.

Slow morning at Pevero. Swim off the back of the boat, breakfast on deck, then a short afternoon reposition into Cala di Volpe — the deeper bay just north, with the eponymous hotel above the water and Phi Beach a few minutes' tender ride away. Lunch at Phi if the table works for the group: the beach club is built into the granite cliffs above Baja Sardinia, more rough-hewn than the polished resort version most guests imagine, and the food reads more authentic than the postcard.

By mid-afternoon, lines off for the eighteen-nautical-mile run north up the granite coast and across the Maddalena Sound to Caprera. The Maddalena Archipelago — seven major islands plus a scatter of smaller cays — sits inside a national park with managed anchoring fields, and Caprera is the second largest. Garibaldi lived out the back end of his life here; the house is now a museum, but most guests come for the granite coves on the south coast and the white-sand beaches on the east.

Evening at anchor off Caprera. The water turns the color of a pool light an hour before sundown. Dinner aboard tonight — chef-prepared, on the aft deck, with the lights of Maddalena town a couple of miles off the bow.

The strait day. Your captain checks the morning's wind forecast at first light: when the Mistral is settled, the strait is flat enough to swim across; when it's blowing twenty-five-plus, the captain may push the crossing to the afternoon or hold a day. The standard plan is mid-morning departure for a swim stop at the Lavezzi Islands — a French marine reserve of granite outcrops in the middle of the strait, six nautical miles from Bonifacio and seven from Maddalena, with shallow turquoise water and protected anchoring fields outside the no-anchor zones.

From Lavezzi the run into Bonifacio takes another forty-five minutes. The approach is unforgettable: the harbor is cut into the limestone cliffs themselves, and the yacht enters through a narrow fjord-like channel with the haute ville — the medieval walled town built on the cliff-top peninsula — rising directly above. The town has been there since the ninth century, and most of the wall still stands. Stern-to mooring inside the marina or anchor outside; the captain handles the booking.

Afternoon ashore. Walk the haute ville (twenty minutes around the perimeter, more if you stop at the chapels), down the King of Aragon Stairway — a hundred and eighty-seven steps cut into the cliff face, supposedly carved overnight by Aragonese soldiers in the fifteenth century — and across to the cemetery at the cliff edge with views back across the strait to Sardinia. Dinner ashore tonight at a stone-walled tavern in the haute ville: charcuterie de Corse, fresh-grilled fish off the day's boat, and a glass of Patrimonio rosé.

Slow morning in Bonifacio. Walk back into the haute ville for coffee, do the King of Aragon Stairway descent and climb if the group is up for it (the climb is the harder direction; allow forty-five minutes), and stop at the stone-walled cemetery at the cliff edge for the long view across the strait. By late morning, lines off and back across to Sardinia.

The return crossing is shorter — the captain steers a course toward Cala Coticcio on the east coast of Caprera, locally called the Tahiti of Sardinia. The cove is approachable only by tender; the granite boulders frame a half-moon of fine white sand and the water turns the color of a pool light. Anchor offshore, tender into the cove for an afternoon swim, and back aboard for a slow late lunch.

Evening reposition a few miles south to a quieter Caprera anchorage for the night. Dinner aboard tonight — chef-prepared, with the granite ridges of Caprera holding the last of the day's heat after sunset and the lights of the next yacht over (if there is one) a few hundred yards off the bow.

Today is the island day. Your captain repositions the yacht north into the cluster of smaller islands at the top of the Maddalena Archipelago — Spargi, Budelli, Razzoli, Santa Maria, and the small cays in between — for a full day of swim stops with no long passages. The first stop is Cala Corsara on the south coast of Spargi: a half-mile cove ringed by pink granite outcrops, the kind of water clarity that reads twenty meters of visibility on a calm day, and a managed anchoring field that limits how many yachts can sit there at once.

From Spargi a short tender-and-binoculars run takes you past Budelli's famous Pink Beach (Spiaggia Rosa), where strict look-only restrictions have been in force since 1994 — the pink color comes from microscopic coral and shell fragments and the beach is one of only two of its kind in the Mediterranean. Don't try to land; the harbor police monitor it. The look from offshore is the point. Razzoli sits just north of Budelli with a different shoreline texture, and Santa Maria — the most northerly of the cluster — has a long sand beach on its south side that's less visited than the headline anchorages.

Late afternoon, drop into Cala di Roto's natural pool. The pool is a sheltered shallow basin tucked at the back of the anchorage; it sits a few feet deep, turns a luminous turquoise mid-day, and stays glass-flat in any wind direction. Dinner aboard tonight, anchored in the cluster, the kind of evening that's the reason to have done the trip.

Slow morning swim off the stern, breakfast on deck, and a late-morning departure southbound. The captain works the route back along the Costa Smeralda's outer islands — Porto Rafael for a quieter midday stop, the granite headlands south of Cannigione, the small sand coves on the eastern shore of the Maddalena Sound that most yachts pass without anchoring.

Mid-afternoon, settle into Pevero Bay or Cala di Volpe — wherever the wind is best blocked. The Costa Smeralda is mostly a series of small bays inside larger ones, and most days the captain has options. Lunch ashore at Phi Beach if you missed it on Day 2, or a Costa Smeralda taverna ashore for an early dinner.

Evening aboard, anchored in the lee. The Costa Smeralda's last night is a slow one — the granite still holds the day's heat, the water turns from turquoise to navy as the sun drops, and the lights of Porto Cervo come up across the bay.

Last full day. Slow morning at anchor — swim, breakfast on deck, a final tender ride into a quiet beach if the group wants one. By mid-day the captain works the short ten-nautical-mile run back south around Capo Figari and into the Gulf of Olbia.

Settle into Marina di Olbia in the early afternoon. Walk into Olbia town if you have the energy — the old town is small enough to cover in an hour, and a final lunch at one of the seafront restaurants is the unhurried close most groups take. Final chef-prepared dinner aboard tonight, anchored in the marina with the day's last light over the gulf.

Pack at your own pace. Your captain has the morning's transfer logistics already squared away.

A last slow breakfast aboard at Marina di Olbia, a final swim off the stern if the harbor allows, and disembarkation by mid-morning. Your crew handles the transfer logistics: OLB is fifteen minutes by taxi, with direct summer flights to most major European hubs and an easy connection to the US East Coast through Rome, Milan, Frankfurt, or London. Step off with a passport that crossed one border the captain handled for you, a granite coast and a medieval citadel behind you, and the kind of week that makes most Mediterranean charter guests come back for the longer route.

Your charter begins at Marina di Olbia, a fifteen-minute taxi ride from Olbia (OLB) airport on Sardinia's northeast coast. Your captain and chef meet you on the dock, walk you through the yacht, stow the luggage, and cover the chart for the days ahead. Provisioning is squared away by early afternoon; lines off when the group's ready.

Most guests on this itinerary expect to head north toward Costa Smeralda on day one. The captain instead points the bow south for the twelve-nautical-mile run to Tavolara — a single limestone ridge rising five hundred meters straight out of the sea, designated as Italy's first marine-protected area. The anchorages on the lee side of Tavolara hold flat in any wind direction, the water visibility runs to twenty meters on a clear day, and the cruising traffic is a fraction of what's working the Costa Smeralda anchorages a few miles north.

First night at anchor in the lee of Tavolara. Chef-prepared welcome dinner aboard — Sardinian seafood, a glass of Vermentino di Gallura, the limestone ridge holding the day's heat after sunset and the lights of Porto San Paolo a couple of miles off the bow.

Slow morning at Tavolara — swim, breakfast on deck. Mid-morning lines off for a five-nautical-mile reposition north to Cala Brandinchi, Sardinia's south-east-coast version of "Tahiti of Sardinia" — a half-mile crescent of fine white sand backed by low scrub and stone pines, with shallow turquoise water that runs warm. Lunch at anchor, swim off the back of the boat.

Late afternoon, lines off for the longer fifteen-nautical-mile run north around Capo Figari and into the southern end of the Costa Smeralda. Cala di Volpe is the deepest sheltered anchorage on this stretch — sand bottom, Mistral protection, and the Hotel Cala di Volpe sitting on the headland above the water. The captain calls Pevero or Cala di Volpe based on the afternoon's wind, and you settle in for the first of two nights on the Costa Smeralda.

Dinner aboard tonight, in the lee of the granite ridges. Chef-prepared on the aft deck. The Costa Smeralda granite holds the day's heat after sunset; the water turns from turquoise to navy as the lights come up across the bay.

Slow Costa Smeralda day. The captain may reposition five nautical miles between Pevero, Cala di Volpe, and Liscia di Vacca depending on the wind, but the route is short — most of the day is on the hook. Morning swim, paddleboard or kayak into the headlands, and a late-morning tender to Phi Beach for lunch if the table works. Phi is the beach club built into the cliffs above Baja Sardinia: open-air, granite walls, and a kitchen that runs Sardinian seafood-led with the occasional Italian-mainland classic.

Afternoon ashore: walk Porto Cervo's village above the marina — twenty minutes end-to-end, hand-built in the 1960s by a small group of Aga Khan's architects who refused to repeat any single building twice. The village is small enough that you'll cover it slowly with a stop at the Stella Maris church (a Vassily Kandinsky painting hangs inside) and a coffee at the piazza. Marina di Porto Cervo holds seven hundred slips and yachts to a hundred meters; walking the quayside reads more interesting than most guests expect.

Dinner aboard tonight or ashore at one of the Costa Smeralda restaurants — the captain books ahead. The Sardinian table is what most guests come back for: fregola sarda, suckling pig roasted under a bell, bottarga di Olbia grated over pasta, and a Cannonau red from the inland vineyards that doesn't travel well outside the country.

Slow morning on the Costa Smeralda — swim, breakfast on deck, optional walk into Cala di Volpe village if the group hasn't done it. By late morning, lines off for the fifteen-nautical-mile run north up the granite coast and across the Maddalena Sound to Caprera, the second-largest island in the archipelago.

The Maddalena Archipelago sits inside an Italian national park. Anchoring is managed — fields with mooring buoys in the heavily-trafficked coves, and the captain pays the per-yacht park fee online before crossing into the park boundary. The water turns the cleanest blue of the cruising ground, reading thirty meters of visibility on a settled day. Caprera holds Garibaldi's preserved house on its north coast (a museum, optional shore stop), but most charters come for the granite coves on the south coast and the white-sand beaches on the east.

Settle in for the night at one of Caprera's south-coast anchorages. Chef-prepared dinner aboard. The lights of Maddalena town a couple of miles off the bow.

Today is the island day. Your captain repositions north into the cluster of smaller islands at the top of the Maddalena Archipelago — Spargi, Budelli, Razzoli, Santa Maria, and the small cays in between — for a full day of swim stops with no long passages. The first stop is Cala Corsara on the south coast of Spargi: a half-mile cove ringed by pink granite outcrops, the kind of water clarity that reads twenty meters of visibility on a calm day, and a managed anchoring field that limits how many yachts can sit there at once.

From Spargi a short tender-and-binoculars run takes you past Budelli's famous Pink Beach (Spiaggia Rosa), where strict look-only restrictions have been in force since 1994 — the pink color comes from microscopic coral and shell fragments and the beach is one of only two of its kind in the Mediterranean. Don't try to land; the harbor police monitor it. The look from offshore is the point. Razzoli sits just north of Budelli with a different shoreline texture, and Santa Maria — the most northerly of the cluster — has a long sand beach on its south side that's less visited than the headline anchorages.

Late afternoon, drop into Cala di Roto's natural pool. The pool is a sheltered shallow basin tucked at the back of the anchorage; it sits a few feet deep, turns a luminous turquoise mid-day, and stays glass-flat in any wind direction. Dinner aboard tonight, anchored in the cluster, the kind of evening that's the reason to have done the trip.

Slow morning swim from the Maddalena cluster anchorage, breakfast on deck. Mid-morning, an eight-nautical-mile run southeast back toward the east coast of Caprera and Cala Coticcio — locally called the Tahiti of Sardinia. The cove is approachable only by tender; the granite boulders frame a half-moon of fine white sand, and the water turns the color of a pool light. Anchor offshore, tender into the cove for the morning, and back aboard for a slow late lunch.

Afternoon at anchor on Caprera's east coast. Water toys deployed — paddleboards, kayaks, snorkel kit. The captain may reposition a mile or two between coves depending on the afternoon's wind, but the day's miles are done. The Maddalena's quieter coves see only one or two yachts on a typical evening; on the Costa Smeralda you're never alone in an anchorage, but here you can be.

Dinner aboard tonight, the kind of last-night-but-one meal that the trip is built around. Chef-prepared, on the aft deck, with the granite ridges holding the last of the day's heat.

Last full day at anchor. Slow morning swim from Caprera, breakfast on deck. By late morning, lines off for the longest leg of the week — a twenty-two-nautical-mile run south along the Costa Smeralda's outer islands and back into the Gulf of Olbia. The captain may stop at Santa Teresa Gallura on Sardinia's northern tip for an optional walk through the working fishing harbor and the Spanish watchtower above it.

Settle into Marina di Olbia in the early afternoon. Walk into Olbia town if you have the energy — the old town is small enough to cover in an hour, and a final lunch at one of the seafront restaurants is the unhurried close most groups take. Final chef-prepared dinner aboard tonight, anchored in the marina with the day's last light over the gulf.

Pack at your own pace. Your captain has the morning's transfer logistics already squared away.

A last slow breakfast aboard at Marina di Olbia, a final swim off the stern if the harbor allows, and disembarkation by mid-morning. Your crew handles the transfer logistics: OLB is fifteen minutes by taxi, with direct summer flights to most major European hubs and an easy connection to the US East Coast through Rome, Milan, Frankfurt, or London. Step off with the granite coast and the Maddalena behind you, and the kind of unhurried Italian week that most charter guests describe as the one they wished they'd booked the first time.

Your charter begins at Marina d'Ajaccio, a ten-minute taxi ride from Ajaccio (AJA) airport on Corsica's west coast. Your captain and chef meet you on the dock, walk you through the yacht, stow the luggage, and cover the chart for the days ahead. If you arrive early, Napoleon's birthplace house is a fifteen-minute walk through the old town, and the citadel above the harbor adds another half-hour if you're inclined.

By early afternoon, lines off for the short ten-nautical-mile run out of the gulf to the Sanguinaires Islands — a chain of red-rock outcrops at the mouth of the bay, designated as a nature reserve and home to a population of Audouin's gulls. The islands take their name ("the bloody ones") from the way they turn deep red at sunset; the anchorage on the lee side holds in any westerly wind and the swimming off the back of the boat is the standard first-afternoon entry point.

First night at anchor in the lee of the Sanguinaires. Chef-prepared welcome dinner aboard — Corsican charcuterie to start, fresh-grilled fish off the day's boat, a glass of Patrimonio rosé from the vineyards on Cap Corse. The lights of Ajaccio glow back across the gulf as the sun drops behind the islands.

Slow morning at the Sanguinaires — swim, breakfast on deck, optional tender into the small lighthouse on the largest of the islands. By mid-morning, lines off for the twenty-five-nautical-mile northbound run up the west coast to Cargèse and the southern entrance of the Gulf of Porto.

Cargèse is a working coastal village with an unusual religious history: in the seventeenth century, a group of Greek Maniots fleeing Ottoman rule were granted land here by the Genoese authorities, and the village's two churches — Greek-Orthodox and Catholic — still sit opposite each other across the village square. Lunch ashore at one of the harbor restaurants is the standard mid-day stop. From Cargèse the captain works the run further north past Capo Rosso and into the Gulf of Porto.

Late afternoon, settle into an anchorage inside the gulf — the Calanques de Piana sit on the southern shore of the gulf entrance, a stretch of wind-eroded red porphyry cliffs designated UNESCO World Heritage in 1983. The cliffs catch the late-afternoon sun and turn the color of the desert. Dinner aboard tonight in the lee of the calanques.

Today is the marquee day. Mid-morning lines off for the short ten-nautical-mile run north along Corsica's west coast and into the Scandola Nature Reserve — designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1975 and accessible only from the water. The reserve runs nine kilometers of coast: red porphyry cliffs that drop straight into the sea, sea caves carved into the rock, and the densest population of nesting ospreys on the western Mediterranean. There is no shore access, no road, and no village; the protection is strict, and the captain follows the marked anchoring restrictions and minimum-distance rules at the cliff faces.

From Scandola a short tender or daysail brings you into Girolata, a fishing village on the southern shore of the gulf that's reachable only by boat or by a four-hour hiking trail through the Scandola hinterland. Twenty houses, a fishing harbor, a small Genoese fort overlooking the bay, and a population under fifty year-round. Lunch ashore at one of the two harbor restaurants — the catch is whatever came up that morning, and the bread is local — and a slow afternoon at anchor in the bay.

Dinner aboard tonight at Girolata. The lights of the village come up after sunset; the bay is sheltered in any direction the maestrale might be blowing; and there's no road noise because there's no road.

Slow morning at Girolata, second tender ride into the village if anyone wants one. By mid-morning, lines off for the twenty-five-nautical-mile run north up the coast to Calvi. The leg passes the open coast at Capo Rosso (the maestrale can throw swell here in the afternoon, which is why captains run it in the morning) and the long sand beaches of the Désert des Agriates — Corsica's only desert, a fifty-square-mile granite-and-scrub wilderness that backs onto the western coast.

By early afternoon you're rounding the western headland of Calvi Bay and into the marina or the bay itself. Calvi sits at the head of a five-mile crescent of fine sand backed by snow-capped mountains — the Monte Cinto range, Corsica's highest, sits inland and holds snow into June most years. The Genoese citadel rises above the marina on the western headland: built in the thirteenth century, occupied by the British Navy under Nelson in 1794 (where he lost his right eye to a French mortar shell), and home to the local legend that Christopher Columbus was born inside its walls.

Afternoon ashore. Walk the citadel (forty minutes around the perimeter), down through the lower town to the waterfront cafés, and along the beach if the group wants the long version. Dinner ashore tonight at one of the harbor restaurants or aboard with the citadel lit up across the bay — the captain has the booking either way.

Mid-morning lines off for the thirty-nautical-mile run east along the Balagne coast — the most fertile stretch of Corsica, with olive groves and chestnut orchards visible from the water. Mid-day stop at Île Rousse: the village takes its name from the small reddish-granite islets that sit offshore, and the harbor runs the daily Marseille ferry. Lunch ashore at one of the harbor cafés or back aboard.

Afternoon, the captain works the longer leg eastbound around the western base of Cap Corse and into Saint-Florent. The peninsula of Cap Corse sticks forty kilometers north into the Mediterranean from the rest of the island, with the Patrimonio vineyards on its western base — Corsica's best-known wine appellation, growing rosé and malvasia on chalk-soil terraces a few kilometers inland from Saint-Florent. Optional shore excursion to the vineyards in the late afternoon (the captain books the visit ahead).

Dinner aboard tonight at Saint-Florent or ashore at one of the harbor restaurants. The Genoese citadel above the harbor lights up after sunset; the village is small enough to walk in twenty minutes.

Slow Saint-Florent morning. Optional walk into the village for coffee, a final tender into the Patrimonio side if anyone missed the vineyard visit. By mid-morning, the captain calls the day's route based on weather: the maestrale-up option is a direct return southwest along the Balagne coast back toward the Gulf of Porto; the maestrale-settled option is a twenty-five-mile loop up the west coast of Cap Corse to Nonza and a few of the smaller terraced villages, and back south.

If the Cap Corse loop runs, Nonza is the marquee stop. The village sits on a clifftop with a single Genoese watchtower and a black-volcanic-rock beach below — a leftover from a former asbestos quarry that closed in the 1960s and is now a striking shoreline texture you don't see anywhere else on the cruising ground. A vertical-ladder access drops from the village to the beach for guests who want to walk down. Lunch aboard mid-day, slow afternoon at anchor in one of the smaller coves on the southwest side of Cap Corse.

Late afternoon, the captain works the southbound run back toward the Calvi area or further south depending on how many miles are left for the final return day. Dinner aboard tonight, anchored in the lee of the maestrale wherever the day ended.

Last full day at anchor. Slow morning swim and breakfast on deck. Mid-morning lines off for the twenty-five-nautical-mile southbound run along the western coast to a final stop at Propriano — the head of the Gulf of Valinco, with sand beaches on the south side and a working harbor at the village. Lunch ashore at one of the harbor cafés or back aboard.

Afternoon, the captain works the final fifteen miles south around the Punta di Senetosa and into the Gulf of Ajaccio. Settle into Marina d'Ajaccio in the early evening. Walk into Ajaccio's old town if you have the energy — the central pedestrian streets are small enough to cover in an hour, and a final lunch or aperitif at one of the seafront restaurants is the unhurried close most groups take.

Final chef-prepared dinner aboard tonight, anchored in the marina with the day's last light over the gulf. Pack at your own pace; your captain has the morning's transfer logistics already squared away.

A last slow breakfast aboard at Marina d'Ajaccio, a final swim off the stern if the harbor allows, and disembarkation by mid-morning. Your crew handles the transfer logistics: AJA is ten minutes by taxi, with direct summer flights to Paris, Marseille, Nice, Lyon, London, and a handful of additional European hubs. From the US, most guests connect through Paris-Charles de Gaulle. Step off with a UNESCO World Heritage marine reserve, a Genoese citadel, a Greek-Orthodox church, and a bottle of Patrimonio rosé behind you, and the kind of week that makes most Mediterranean charter guests come back for the cross-strait route the next year.

Your charter begins at Marina di Olbia, a fifteen-minute taxi ride from Olbia (OLB) airport. Your captain and chef meet you on the dock, walk you through the yacht, stow the luggage, and cover the chart for the days ahead — including the two longer at-sea days mid-week, which the captain runs early in the morning before the breeze builds. The marina is deep-water capable for any size yacht, and the early afternoon is yours to settle in.

Provisioning squared away, lines off for the short sixteen-nautical-mile run northeast around Capo Figari and into the Costa Smeralda. The Costa Smeralda is the most concentrated stretch of granite coastline in the Mediterranean; Pevero Bay sits just south of Porto Cervo, framed by two white sand beaches and protected from any wind direction the Mistral might be blowing.

First night at anchor in Pevero or stern-to at Porto Cervo Marina. Chef-prepared welcome dinner aboard — Sardinian seafood, a glass of Vermentino di Gallura, and the lights of the Costa Smeralda coming up across the bay. The trip is built around the next six days; the first night is the slow start.

Mid-morning lines off for the twenty-five-nautical-mile crossing of the Strait of Bonifacio. The captain checks the morning's wind forecast at first light: when the Mistral is settled, the strait is flat enough to swim across; when it's blowing twenty-five-plus, the boat may push the crossing to the early afternoon. A swim stop at the Lavezzi Islands — French marine reserve in the middle of the strait — typically anchors the mid-morning of the day.

From Lavezzi the run into Bonifacio takes another forty-five minutes. The harbor approach is unforgettable: cut into the limestone cliffs, with the haute ville rising directly above. Stern-to mooring inside the marina or anchor outside; the captain handles the booking. Walk the haute ville — the medieval walled town built on the cliff-top peninsula — in the late afternoon, the King of Aragon Stairway down and back if the group is up for it.

Dinner ashore tonight at one of the stone-walled taverns in the haute ville: charcuterie de Corse, fresh-grilled fish, and a glass of Patrimonio rosé. Or aboard with the haute ville lit up across the harbor.

Long day. The captain runs the seventy-nautical-mile leg up Corsica's west coast in the morning, before the maestrale builds — a planing motor yacht handles the leg in four to five hours, getting you into Calvi by early afternoon. The route passes the Calanques de Piana, the entrance to the Gulf of Porto, and the UNESCO Scandola Nature Reserve on the port side mid-day. Guests on the dedicated Corsica West Coast itinerary anchor inside Scandola; on this route, you see the red cliffs from the water as the boat passes.

By early afternoon you're rounding the western headland of Calvi Bay and into the marina or the bay itself. Calvi sits at the head of a five-mile crescent of fine sand backed by snow-capped mountains; the Genoese citadel rises above the marina on the western headland, occupied by Nelson in 1794 (where he lost his right eye to a French mortar shell) and home to the local legend that Christopher Columbus was born inside its walls.

Afternoon and evening ashore. Walk the citadel, drop into one of the harbor cafés or beach clubs, and dinner ashore tonight at one of Calvi's harbor restaurants. Or aboard with the citadel lit up across the bay.

Longest leg of the trip. The captain runs the eighty-nautical-mile crossing from Calvi to Saint-Tropez early in the morning — a planing motor yacht handles the leg in five hours; on a sailing yacht the same crossing takes twelve. Open-water passage across the Ligurian Sea, with no scheduled stops; the boat is moving the whole time and the day is for relaxing on deck rather than running a tight schedule.

By early afternoon, the boat is rounding the headland into Saint-Tropez Bay. Stern-to mooring at the old port quay (the captain holds a slot in advance) or anchor in the bay outside. Saint-Tropez itself is a small old fishing village — the harbor is still working, the pastel buildings above the quay are protected, and the high-season summer crowd is concentrated in a few specific bars and beach clubs.

Afternoon ashore: walk the old town, lunch at Sénéquier on the quay if the table works, and a tender ride east to Pampelonne Beach (three miles of fine sand with Club 55, Nikki Beach, and Tahiti Plage along the dunes). Dinner aboard tonight or ashore at one of the harbor restaurants — the captain books ahead.

Slow morning at Saint-Tropez. Optional walk through the morning market on the Place des Lices (Tuesday and Saturday), or breakfast aboard before lines-off. By mid-morning, the captain runs the thirty-nautical-mile leg east along the coast past the Massif de l'Estérel — the red volcanic-rock coastline that drops straight into the sea between Saint-Tropez and Cannes. The route is mostly inside the coast, with a stop possible at Théoule-sur-Mer if the group wants a swim.

Mid-day arrival into the Bay of Cannes. The captain calls Cannes harbor or the Lerins Islands anchorage — the Lerins (Sainte-Marguerite and Saint-Honorat) sit two miles offshore, and the smaller of the two (Saint-Honorat) holds an active Cistercian abbey where the monks make their own wine and run a public lunch service. Lunch at the abbey if the table works; otherwise lunch ashore at one of the Croisette beach clubs.

Afternoon and evening in Cannes. The Croisette runs the length of the seafront — palm-lined, beach clubs on one side, the harbor on the other. The Cannes Film Festival venue (Palais des Festivals) sits at the western end. Dinner ashore tonight or aboard with the harbor lights coming up.

Slow morning in Cannes. Lines off mid-morning for the twenty-nautical-mile coastal hop east, past Cap d'Antibes and into Antibes itself. Antibes' Port Vauban is one of the largest yacht harbors in the Mediterranean, with the medieval ramparts and the Picasso Museum (housed in the Château Grimaldi) directly behind the quay. Lunch ashore in the old town at one of the rampart-side restaurants, or a quick walk through the daily covered market.

Afternoon, the captain works the run east past Nice and into Villefranche Bay. The bay is a deep horseshoe between Cap Ferrat and Mont Boron — the deepest anchorage on the French Riviera, sheltered in any direction the wind might be blowing, and the standard overnight stop for guests on this route. Cap Ferrat's villa coast sits on the eastern shore: three kilometers of villa-lined headland between Nice and Monaco, with the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild the only one with public access.

Evening in Villefranche. Walk the old town in the late afternoon — the medieval Rue Obscure (a covered street that runs the length of the seafront) is the marquee piece. Dinner aboard tonight, anchored in the bay, with the lights of Villefranche running up the hillside above and the lights of Nice and Monaco visible from the deck.

Last full day. Slow morning at Villefranche — swim, breakfast on deck, optional tender into the old town for coffee. By late morning, lines off for the short five-nautical-mile final approach east into Monaco's Port Hercule.

Port Hercule is the only deep-water harbor on the Riviera between Italy and France — megayachts side-tied along the quay during the season, with the principality rising directly above. The Casino square (Place du Casino) sits at the top of the rock; the Grand Prix circuit runs through the streets and the marina is part of the Sainte-Dévote-to-Tabac stretch of the course; the Prince's Palace overlooks the harbor from the western headland.

Afternoon and evening ashore. Walk the Casino square, drop into the Hôtel de Paris bar opposite, walk up to the Prince's Palace if the group has the energy. Dinner aboard tonight at Port Hercule with the harbor lights coming up against the cliffs, or ashore at Le Louis XV (the Alain Ducasse restaurant inside the Hôtel de Paris) if the booking lined up. Final chef-prepared dinner aboard the more common pick on most charters — slower close, the trip's last full meal at anchor.

A last slow breakfast aboard at Port Hercule, a final tender into the harbor walk if the group wants one, and disembarkation by mid-morning. Your crew handles the transfer logistics: Nice (NCE) is thirty minutes by car or five minutes by Heli Air Monaco helicopter, with direct flights to most US East Coast hubs and essentially every major European city. Step off with the granite coast of Sardinia, the haute ville at Bonifacio, the Genoese citadel at Calvi, the old port at Saint-Tropez, the Croisette at Cannes, the villa coast of Cap Ferrat, and the Casino square at Monaco all behind you, and the kind of week that's hard to top inside seven days anywhere in the chartering industry.

Tu semana empieza en Marina d'Arechi, justo al sur de Salerno: de 50 a 60 minutos del aeropuerto de Capodichino en coche, o un Frecciarossa directo de 1 hora y 26 minutos desde la estación de Termini de Roma para los huéspedes que llegan vía Roma. La marina admite catamaranes y yates de vela de hasta 100 metros en 8 metros de agua en el muelle; la entrada ancha y las tasas de amarre más bajas, en comparación con las marinas del lado de Nápoles, la convierten en la base operativa del segmento de catamaranes del inventario de yate de esta región. Tu tripulación profesional te recibe en el atraque con bebidas frías y una sesión informativa sobre la carta que enmarca la semana que viene.

A media mañana, el capitán larga amarras para la suave travesía de 6 millas náuticas al oeste hasta Cetara, el pequeño pueblo pesquero enclavado bajo la carretera de acantilado SS163, en el extremo este de la Costiera Amalfitana propiamente dicha, y uno de los pocos lugares de esta costa que sigue funcionando como puerto pesquero en lugar de como destino turístico. El almuerzo es en el pequeño muelle del pueblo o a bordo, al ancla: los boquerones son la carta de presentación de Cetara, y el pueblo inventó la colatura di alici (una salsa ámbar y transparente que se produce con boquerones curados en sal, fermentados y prensados), que se elabora aquí desde época romana. Al Convento o Acqua Pazza para la versión formal; las parrillas del puerto para lo informal.

Tras el almuerzo, una corta travesía de 5 millas náuticas más al oeste te lleva al pueblo de Amalfi. Marina Coppola, en el puerto, admite yates de hasta 35 metros en 8 a 11 metros de agua: el amarre más resguardado de este tramo de costa, a diez minutos a pie de la catedral de Sant'Andrea, en lo alto de la plaza principal del pueblo. Velada: una larga cena en Eolo, en el paseo marítimo, o una sencilla trattoria de pescado a la parrilla junto a la plaza principal, con la catedral iluminada sobre el pueblo y el puerto en calma para las 23:00.

Ravello se asienta siete kilómetros acantilado arriba sobre Amalfi, a unos veinte minutos con chófer privado por las curvas de la SS373. Excursión de media jornada: lancha al embarcadero de Pennello a las 9:30, chófer por las revueltas, una hora en los jardines de Villa Rufolo (el escenario en voladizo del Belvedere donde el Festival de Ravello se celebra cada verano desde 1953, y donde Wagner escribió en el libro de visitas en 1880 que había encontrado el jardín mágico de Klingsor), y luego un corto paseo hasta Villa Cimbrone para el Belvedere del Infinito, la terraza al borde del acantilado bordeada de bustos de mármol. Café en la Piazza Duomo, de vuelta al yate a tiempo para un almuerzo a las 13:00.

A media tarde, el capitán larga amarras para la travesía de 13 millas náuticas al oeste rodeando la punta de la península de Sorrento hasta Nerano. La ruta abraza la costa: Praiano a estribor, el puente arqueado sobre el Fiordo di Furore justo encima al pasar por debajo, los acantilados de Conca dei Marini y las boyas de entrada de la Gruta Esmeralda visibles desde cubierta. Al caer la tarde, el barco está fondeado mar adentro frente a Marina del Cantone en 8 a 15 metros de arena, con la península de Sorrento resguardando la bahía del norte.

Velada: cena en Lo Scoglio (Da Tommaso), el restaurante familiar enclavado en la ladera sobre la bahía, con su propia lancha de madera privada que va de los yates fondeados a la terraza. El pedido está fijado: spaghetti alla Nerano, pescado de barco de día a la parrilla, un Greco di Tufo de la bodega. Lo Scoglio es uno de los restaurantes más fotografiados de la costa italiana y la presentación de Stanley Tucci en "Searching for Italy" lo hizo aún más; el conserje guarda la mesa con semanas de antelación en temporada alta. Conca del Sogno, en la bahía de Recommone justo al este, es la alternativa, también de acceso solo en barco y también con su propio servicio de lancha.

La travesía más corta de la semana: un salto de 5 millas náuticas cruzando las Bocche di Capri de Nerano a Capri. La mayoría de las semanas, el capitán lo programa para media mañana, de modo que los ferris de excursionistas del día desde Nápoles y Sorrento ya hayan atracado y los puertos estén en su momento de mayor ajetreo antes del almuerzo. Capri se disfruta más desde el agua a última hora de la tarde y al anochecer; el ángulo del barco maneja la mañana de otra manera.

A la entrada, el capitán mantiene posición frente a las rocas Faraglioni para las fotos y luego fondea en Marina Piccola, en 6 a 10 metros de arena, en el lado sur, o amarra de popa en Marina Grande, al norte, para yates de hasta 60 metros que tengan un amarre reservado de antemano (la marina se agota con meses de antelación en verano). El almuerzo es a bordo, al ancla: los spaghetti alle vongole del chef o la pesca del día a la parrilla en la plancha de la cubierta de popa. La pasta junto al agua en Italia no es un cliché, es lo correcto.

La tarde es para la Gruta Azul, si las condiciones lo permiten: una bajada en lancha en la boca de la cueva, en el lado noroeste de la isla, y una de las barcas de remos de madera de la gruta a través de la abertura de 80 centímetros. 18 € por persona, pagaderos en efectivo a los remeros, cerrada cuando hay oleaje. A última hora de la tarde, cuando se van los barcos de día, el funicular hasta la Piazzetta te deja en el corazón de Capri pueblo para un paseo vespertino antes de la cena. Mammà junto a la Piazzetta por una estrella Michelin, Aurora por la sala familiar con la larga carta de vinos, o Da Paolino bajo el emparrado de limoneros al pie del Monte Solaro por la icónica experiencia de cenar bajo los árboles (reservado con semanas de antelación en temporada alta).

La fama de Capri de estar abarrotada viene de los excursionistas del día, y el yate es el truco para esquivarlos. Lo habitual esta mañana es madrugar: telesilla al Monte Solaro a las 8:00, antes de que haya atracado el primer ferry de Sorrento. La silla sube de Anacapri al punto más alto de la isla en doce minutos, y desde la cumbre puedes ver toda la Costa Amalfitana extendida al sur y la bahía de Nápoles al norte. Para las 9:30, cuando llegan los barcos de día, ya estás de vuelta en Anacapri tomando un espresso y paseando por la Villa San Michele, la villa y jardín de Axel Munthe, construida sobre las ruinas de una de las capillas de Tiberio en 1896.

A media mañana, la lancha te deja de vuelta en Marina Piccola, donde el catamarán está fondeado en 6 a 10 metros sobre arena. El menor calado del catamarán tiene una ventaja real aquí: más cerca de la orilla, plataforma de baño más fácil, más cómodo para la tarde. Almuerzo a bordo, y luego la plataforma de baño está abierta: snorkel por la base del acantilado, kayaks y tablas de paddle desde el espejo de popa para los niños. La Marina Piccola de Capri es famosa por ser el ángulo de postal de los Faraglioni: la larga y perezosa tarde al ancla bajo las rocas es la razón misma de estar en un yate aquí.

A última hora de la tarde, cuando se aligera la multitud de cruceros, el capitán reposiciona el catamarán para una travesía vespertina alrededor de los Faraglioni —el famoso paso bajo el arco del Faraglione di Mezzo si el mar está lo bastante plano— y luego de vuelta a Marina Piccola para las copas al atardecer en cubierta. La cena la decides tú: La Fontelina, bajo las rocas, para el sitio diurno, o de vuelta al barco esta noche para el montaje completo de la velada del chef. Le Grottelle, cerca del Arco Naturale (cerrado los martes, reservas solo por teléfono en el +39 081 8375719), para quienes quieran la sala fuera de la ruta turística.

Hoy es la travesía más larga de la semana: un cruce en mar abierto de 18 millas náuticas al noroeste de Capri a Ischia, atravesando las Bocche di Capri. En un yate de vela o catamarán con el ángulo de viento adecuado, este es el día en que salen las velas: normalmente un largo de través con brisas de verano de suaves a moderadas, con los acantilados de la península de Sorrento cayendo por la popa y las laderas volcánicas de Ischia creciendo por la proa. Con el tiempo estable de junio y septiembre es una cómoda travesía de tres horas; en los meses de temporada media se calcula según la dirección de la brisa.

Ischia es la mayor de las islas de la bahía de Nápoles y la que tiene la historia más larga de ser visitada específicamente por sus aguas termales: los manantiales que brotan de las laderas del monte Epomeo llevan dos mil años atrayendo a romanos, borbones y directores de cine del siglo XX. La elección de fondeadero de tu capitán da forma al día. Casamicciola, en la costa norte, es la bahía mejor protegida y un fácil salto en lancha al complejo termal de Negombo (una reserva privada le consigue a tu grupo una docena de piscinas a distintas temperaturas aterrazadas en la ladera). Forio, en la costa oeste, es la opción por el sol de última hora de la tarde y una velada más tranquila al ancla.

A última hora de la tarde, el catamarán reposiciona hacia el Castello Aragonese, la fortaleza medieval en su propio islote frente a la costa este de Ischia, unido a la isla principal por una calzada de piedra. Ha estado habitado de forma continua durante 2.500 años, fortificado en su forma actual bajo los aragoneses en el siglo XV, y es el referente visual que la mayoría de los clientes de charter se llevan de Ischia. La cena es a bordo, al ancla, con la silueta del Castello por la proa mientras se encienden las luces a lo largo de la calzada.

Un corto salto de 5 millas náuticas al sur te lleva de Ischia a Procida, la más pequeña y subestimada de las islas de la bahía de Nápoles, la de tonos pastel que aparece en cada postal del cine italiano de los años cincuenta. La Marina Corricella es el lado fotografiable; Marina di Chiaiolella, al suroeste, es el fondeadero protegido. Baño a media mañana, un espresso en un café en tierra en Corricella, almuerzo a bordo al ancla con la flota pesquera entrando y saliendo.

A media tarde, el capitán larga amarras para la travesía de 14 millas náuticas al sureste cruzando la bahía de Nápoles hasta Sorrento. El Vesubio queda a babor, la península de Sorrento justo en la proa, la larga y suave curva de la bahía por debajo. Llegada a última hora de la tarde a la Marina Piccola de Sorrento, un puerto de embarcaciones pequeñas compartido con el muelle del ferry público, apto solo para yates de hasta 40 metros y crónicamente congestionado en pleno verano. La manga de 12 a 14 metros del catamarán encaja en el lado de visitantes de la marina; los yates más grandes fondean mar adentro y llegan en lancha.

El casco antiguo de Sorrento trepa por el acantilado sobre la marina, y la terraza del Foreigners' Club, en lo alto, es el sitio adecuado para un aperitivo al atardecer antes de la cena. Il Buco para la sala con una estrella Michelin en la bodega de un monasterio del siglo XVI, a cinco minutos de la marina; o quince minutos cresta arriba hasta Sant'Agata para Don Alfonso 1890, de nuevo con una estrella Michelin más una estrella verde tras su reforma de sostenibilidad de 2025.

Una travesía de 8 millas náuticas al este desde Sorrento te lleva de vuelta a Positano para una última mañana en este tramo de costa. Los yates de hasta 50 metros cogen una boya en el campo de fondeo mar adentro que mantiene la cooperativa local: no hay marina en Positano, solo el campo de boyas y el embarcadero de madera de la Spiaggia Grande para los desembarcos en lancha. A media mañana en tierra: un corto paseo por las escaleras del acantilado hasta uno de los pequeños cafés de la Via Cristoforo Colombo para un espresso, la cúpula de Santa Maria Assunta con su azulejo de mayólica atrapando la luz de la mañana, y una última mirada al pueblo de acantilado desde el ángulo que la mayoría de las fotos de este pueblo no pueden captar desde tierra.

De vuelta al barco hacia las 11:00, plataforma de baño abierta una última vez, almuerzo a bordo en la boya. A primera hora de la tarde, el capitán suelta el cabo de la boya para la travesía de 12 millas náuticas al este por la costa de vuelta a Salerno. La ruta abraza los acantilados: Praiano, el puente arqueado de Furore, Conca dei Marini, el pueblo de Amalfi desde el agua una vez más, y la larga aproximación final a Marina d'Arechi pasando el espigón.

Desembarco en Marina d'Arechi a media tarde. La tripulación tiene el traslado organizado: directo a NAP para los huéspedes que vuelan ese mismo día, o a Roma Termini con el Frecciarossa directo desde la estación de Stadio Arechi de Salerno (1 hora y 26 minutos hasta Roma, a menudo más fácil que conducir de vuelta a Nápoles). Muchos grupos alargan el viaje con una noche posterior al viaje en yate en la propia Salerno o un día en Pompeya de camino de vuelta a Nápoles, ambos a 30 minutos en coche de la marina.

Your week begins at Porto di Mergellina in Naples — ten minutes from Capodichino airport (NAP), with the Castel dell'Ovo silhouette across the bay and the headland of Posillipo above. Larger motor yachts above 75 meters embark instead at Marina di Stabia at Castellammare, twenty-five minutes south of NAP and the largest superyacht facility in the Bay of Naples. Either way, your professional crew meets you at the slip with cold drinks and a chart briefing that frames the week ahead. Many groups arrive a day early and stage Pompeii on the buffer day — 30 minutes from either marina by car, with a private archaeologist guide booked weeks in advance to walk the site as the 9:00 AM gates open.

Mid-morning the captain slips lines for the 12-nautical-mile run southwest to Procida — the smallest of the Bay of Naples islands and the right place to start the week. Procida has none of Capri's intensity and none of Ischia's spa-day traffic. Marina di Chiaiolella, the protected bay on the island's southwest side, is where the captain anchors for the afternoon.

On a 35-meter-plus motor yacht the boat itself is most of the day — the swim platform comes off the transom, the chef sets a long welcome lunch on the aft deck, the water toys come out, and the bay holds quietly through the afternoon. Dinner is on board at anchor; the chef's welcome menu, a Greco di Tufo from the cellar, and the lights of Marina Corricella across the water as the harbor settles for the night.

A short 5-to-7-nautical-mile hop takes you from Procida to Ischia, the largest of the Bay of Naples islands. The thermal springs on Mt. Epomeo's volcanic flanks have been drawing visitors for two thousand years, and the spa culture is still the island's calling card. Your captain's choice of anchorage shapes the day — Casamicciola for the better-protected bay and an easier tender to Negombo's terraced thermal pools, or Forio on the western coast for the late-afternoon sun and a quieter evening at anchor.

If your group wants the spa morning, a private booking at Negombo or Poseidon Gardens gets you a dozen pools at different temperatures in the hillside; both are walk-from-the-tender. If you'd rather stay on the boat, the snorkel kit comes off the swim platform and the chef sets a long lunch on the aft deck. Larger motor yachts are most of the day — flybridge for cocktails, beach club for the afternoon, formal dinner setting on the aft deck.

Late afternoon, the captain repositions to the Castello Aragonese — the medieval fortress on its own islet off the eastern shore of Ischia, fortified into its current shape under the Aragonese in the 15th century and the visual marker most charter clients carry away from Ischia. Dinner is on board at anchor, the silhouette of the Castello off the bow as the lights come on along the causeway.

Today is the longest passage of the week — an open 18-nautical-mile crossing south from Ischia to Capri. On a 35-meter-plus motor yacht this is comfortable inside two hours; the cliffs of the Sorrento Peninsula grow on the bow and the Bay of Naples falls off the stern. Most weeks the crossing happens during late breakfast on the aft deck.

Capri appears as a single steep limestone wall, then resolves into the two harbors on either side of the island. Marina Grande on the north shore is the only marina that takes overnight stern-to berths up to 60 meters — book months ahead in summer. Marina Piccola on the south side is the day anchorage in 6 to 10 meters of sand. Your captain's choice depends on yacht size, weather, and how the next day is staged. On the way in, the captain holds station off the Faraglioni for the photographs, then noses around for the famous arch passage at Faraglione di Mezzo when the sea is flat enough.

The Capri play starts now. The day-tripper ferries from Naples and Sorrento land between 9:30 and 11:00 in the morning and clear out between 16:00 and 18:00. Your captain's plan is to be in the harbor by mid-afternoon, get you ashore for a quiet stroll up the funicular to the Piazzetta around 17:00 once the cruise crowd has thinned. Dinner at L'Olivo at the Capri Palace up in Anacapri (the only two-Michelin-star room on the island) or Mammà off the Piazzetta for the one-star option, and back aboard for a quiet night.

Up early — chairlift to Monte Solaro at 8:00 AM before the first ferry from Sorrento has landed. The chair runs from Anacapri to the highest point on the island in twelve minutes, and from the summit you can see the whole Amalfi Coast laid out south and the Bay of Naples north. By 9:30, when the day boats are coming in, you're back at Anacapri for an espresso and a walk through Villa San Michele — Axel Munthe's villa-and-garden, built into the ruins of one of Tiberius's chapels in 1896.

Late morning, the tender drops you back at the boat where the captain has anchored at Marina Piccola in 6 to 10 meters on sand. Lunch is on board at anchor. On a 35-meter-plus motor yacht the lunch service is the formal setting — the chef's tasting menu, a Capri-cellar bottle, the swim platform dropped after coffee. Capri's Marina Piccola is famous for being the photo-postcard angle of the Faraglioni — the long lazy afternoon at anchor under the rocks is the entire point of being on a yacht here.

The afternoon belongs to the Blue Grotto if conditions allow — a tender drop at the cave mouth on the northwest side of the island, and one of the grotto's wooden rowboats through the 80-centimeter opening. €18 per person, payable cash to the oarsmen, closed when the swell is up. By late afternoon the day boats have cleared and the island settles. Dinner is your call: Da Paolino under the lemon canopy at the foot of Monte Solaro (booked weeks ahead during peak season), Mammà off the Piazzetta, or back on the boat for an evening at anchor with the Faraglioni framing the cockpit.

A short 5-nautical-mile hop east takes you from Capri to Nerano. The captain anchors offshore Marina del Cantone in 8 to 15 meters of sand, and Lo Scoglio runs its own wooden tender from anchored yachts to its terrace at the foot of the village. The order is set: spaghetti alla Nerano, grilled day-boat fish, a Greco di Tufo from the cellar. By August the bay is a parking lot of 30-meter motor yachts at midday — the concierge holds the table months ahead.

After lunch the swim platform is open in Recommone Bay just east of the main beach, sheltered from the boat traffic and quieter than Marina del Cantone proper. Mid-afternoon the captain repositions for the 8-nautical-mile run east along the coast to Positano. The approach is the angle of Positano most photographs of this town can't reach from shore — the cliff-stack of pastel houses cascading down to Spiaggia Grande, the dome of Santa Maria Assunta with its majolica tile catching the late sun.

Positano has no marina — yachts up to 50 meters pick up a buoy 300 to 400 meters offshore in the cooperative-managed mooring field and tender guests in to the wooden jetty at Spiaggia Grande. Dinner is on shore tonight: La Sponda at Le Sirenuse for the one-Michelin-star room with the lemon-tree-and-candlelight terrace, or Zass at Il San Pietro a tender ride east of Positano with its own private sea-level dock and a cliff elevator up to the dining room. Back aboard at the buoy by 23:00, lights of Positano stacked above the cockpit.

The shortest passage of the week — a 6-nautical-mile run east along the coast from Positano to Amalfi, with two stops along the way that the round-trip itineraries skip. First stop, mid-morning: the Fiordo di Furore, a 25-meter pebble cove under the SS163 arched stone bridge. The mothership stands off, the tender threads under the bridge for a swim and photographs. Twenty minutes, not lunch — there's no dock and no taverna at Furore, just the cleft under the arch. The bridge itself is photographed as much as anything else on this coast.

Second stop, late morning: Conca dei Marini and the Emerald Grotto. The yacht anchors in the bay; the tender carries guests to the floating ticket booth at the cave mouth, where one of the grotto's small wooden rowboats takes you in through the 80-centimeter cave opening — the only way in, since no tender or larger boat will fit. €10 per person, payable cash. The grotto's interior light is the same emerald color as the Blue Grotto's blue, generated by the same effect — sunlight refracted through a submerged opening. Hours are roughly 09:00 to 15:00 daily, closed when the sea is up.

Mid-afternoon arrival at Amalfi town. Marina Coppola at the harbor takes yachts up to 35 meters in 8 to 11 meters of water — sheltered, ten minutes' walk from the Cathedral of Sant'Andrea. Yachts above 35 meters anchor offshore and tender in. Half-day Ravello shore excursion if your group hasn't done it yet — tender to the Pennello pier, twenty-minute private driver up the SS373 hairpins, an hour at Villa Cimbrone's Belvedere of Infinity, and back down for a 13:00 lunch on board. Dinner ashore: Eolo on Amalfi's seafront for the harborside view, or Rossellinis at Palazzo Avino back up in Ravello for the one-Michelin-star room with the cliff terrace.

A last slow breakfast at anchor in the shadow of the Amalfi cathedral, a final swim off the swim platform if the morning is warm enough, and the captain slips lines for the 12-to-15-nautical-mile run east along the coast from Amalfi to Salerno. The route is one of the most underrated stretches on this charter ground — the cliffs of Conca dei Marini and Praiano fall behind, the Maiori and Vietri sul Mare coastline opens to port, and the Gulf of Salerno widens toward the long curve of the Cilento Coast on the southern horizon.

Most weeks the captain runs this leg through lunch on board — the chef's farewell plate, a final glass of the cellar's best, and Marina d'Arechi's breakwater growing into focus by the time dessert is cleared. The marina takes yachts up to 100 meters in 8 meters of water at the quay — the southernmost charter base in the Bay of Naples region and the only one on the Amalfi side that handles full superyacht infrastructure.

Disembarkation by mid-afternoon. The crew has the transfer arranged — direct to NAP for guests flying out the same day (50–60 minutes by car via the A3), or to Salerno's Stadio Arechi station for the Frecciarossa direct to Rome's Termini in as little as 1 hour 26 minutes. Many groups stage the post-charter day differently than they would on a Naples round-trip — onward to Pompeii via Naples, a Cilento Coast extension south, or a Capri-Amalfi-Pompeii overnight in Sorrento before flying home. Your captain and chef will step off the boat already talking about when you're coming back, which is usually how the good ones end.

La semana empieza en Mergellina. A diez minutos del aeropuerto, al abrigo del promontorio de Posillipo con la silueta del Castel dell'Ovo al otro lado de la bahía: la marina que has visto en cada fotografía de Nápoles jamás tomada. Tu tripulación te recibe en el atraque con bebidas frías y la sesión informativa sobre la carta. El chef termina el aprovisionamiento mientras un mayordomo acomoda tu equipaje en los camarotes y te enseña el barco. (Los yates más grandes, de más de 75 metros, embarcan en cambio en Marina di Stabia, veinticinco minutos al sur de NAP: la misma bienvenida, barco más grande).

A media mañana, el capitán larga amarras. Doce millas náuticas al suroeste cruzando la bahía de Nápoles hasta Procida, la más pequeña y subestimada de las islas de la bahía. La tarde es una tranquila travesía de rodaje: los acantilados de Posillipo cayendo por la popa, el paseo marítimo en tonos pastel de la Marina Corricella creciendo por la proa. Aire cálido, agua azul, la ciudad ya desaparecida. El tipo de tramo de apertura que reinicia tu sistema nervioso en la primera hora.

Procida no tiene nada de la intensidad de Capri ni del trasiego de spa de Ischia. La flota pesquera todavía llega aquí al anochecer. Las casas amarillas y pastel aparecen en cada postal del cine italiano de los años cincuenta. El capitán fondea en Marina di Chiaiolella, la bahía protegida del lado suroeste de la isla, y la plataforma de baño sale del espejo de popa. Tu primera cena es a bordo, al ancla: el plato de bienvenida del chef, un blanco de Campania de las laderas bajas del Vesubio, y las luces de la Marina Corricella al otro lado del agua mientras el puerto se serena.

Un corto salto de 5 a 7 millas náuticas te lleva de Procida a Ischia, la mayor de las islas de la bahía de Nápoles y la que tiene la historia más larga de ser visitada específicamente por sus aguas. Las aguas termales que brotan de las laderas volcánicas del monte Epomeo llevan dos mil años atrayendo a Ischia a romanos, borbones y directores de cine del siglo XX, y la cultura del spa sigue siendo la carta de presentación de la isla. La elección de fondeadero de tu capitán da forma al día: Casamicciola por su bahía mejor protegida y el acceso más fácil en lancha al complejo termal de Negombo, o Forio en la costa oeste por el sol de última hora de la tarde y la vista de vuelta hacia Procida al otro lado de la bahía.

Si tu grupo quiere la mañana de spa, lo habitual es una reserva privada en Negombo o en los Jardines Poseidón: a ambos se llega a pie desde la lancha, ambos tienen una docena de piscinas a distintas temperaturas aterrazadas en la ladera, y ambos están abiertos hasta octubre. Si prefieres quedarte en el barco, el equipo de snorkel sale de la plataforma de baño y el chef monta un largo almuerzo en la cubierta de popa con la costa desfilando. El agua en mayo, junio y septiembre ronda los 21-23 °C; para mediados de julio se acerca a los 27 °C.

A última hora de la tarde, el capitán reposiciona hacia el Castello Aragonese, la fortaleza medieval que se asienta en su propio islote frente a la costa este de Ischia, unido a la isla principal por una calzada de piedra. Ha estado habitado de forma continua durante 2.500 años, fortificado en su forma actual bajo los aragoneses en el siglo XV, y es el referente visual que la mayoría de los clientes de yates se llevan de Ischia. La cena es a bordo, al ancla, con la silueta del Castello por la proa mientras se encienden las luces a lo largo de la calzada.

Hoy es la travesía más larga de la semana: un cruce en mar abierto de 18 millas náuticas al sur desde Ischia hasta Capri, atravesando las Bocche di Capri, el ancho canal que separa la bahía de Nápoles del lado amalfitano. Tu capitán lo planifica en torno al parte de la mañana. Con el tiempo estable de junio y septiembre es una travesía suave de dos horas; en los meses de temporada media, con tiempo de cola, el cruce se calcula según la dirección de la brisa. En cualquier caso es la única pieza significativa de mar abierto de la semana, y la mayoría de las semanas transcurre durante un desayuno tardío en la cubierta de popa.

Capri aparece por la proa como una única pared escarpada de caliza, y luego se resuelve en los dos puertos a ambos lados de la isla: Marina Grande en la costa norte (el puerto de trabajo y la única marina que admite amarres de popa para pasar la noche hasta 60 metros) y Marina Piccola en el lado sur, bajo las rocas Faraglioni (un fondeadero de fondo de arena en 6 a 10 metros, resguardado solo del norte). La elección de tu capitán depende del tamaño del yate, el tiempo y cómo se organice la mañana siguiente. En cualquier caso, las fotos que todos quieren llegan a la entrada: el capitán mantiene posición frente a los Faraglioni durante diez minutos mientras la lancha rodea para los ángulos, y el famoso paso bajo el arco entre las dos rocas del Faraglione di Mezzo solo ocurre cuando el mar está lo bastante plano.

La estrategia para Capri empieza ahora. Los ferris de excursionistas del día desde Nápoles y Sorrento atracan entre las 9:30 y las 11:00 de la mañana y se van entre las 16:00 y las 18:00. El plan de tu capitán es estar en el puerto a media tarde, dejarte en tierra para un paseo tranquilo en funicular hasta la Piazzetta hacia las 17:00, una vez que la multitud de cruceros se ha aligerado, cenar en Mammà junto a la Piazzetta o en L'Olivo, arriba en Anacapri (la única sala con dos estrellas Michelin de la isla, reservada con semanas de antelación), y de vuelta a bordo para una noche tranquila en el muelle de Marina Grande o al ancla en Marina Piccola.

La fama de Capri de estar abarrotada viene de los excursionistas del día, y el yate es el truco para esquivarlos. Lo habitual esta mañana es madrugar: telesilla al Monte Solaro a las 8:00, antes de que haya atracado el primer ferry de Sorrento. La silla sube de Anacapri al punto más alto de la isla en doce minutos, y desde la cumbre puedes ver toda la Costa Amalfitana extendida al sur y la bahía de Nápoles al norte. Para las 9:30, cuando llegan los barcos de día, ya estás de vuelta en Anacapri tomando un espresso y paseando por la Villa San Michele, la villa y jardín de Axel Munthe, construida sobre las ruinas de una de las capillas de Tiberio en 1896, con el claustro abierto hasta octubre.

A media mañana, la lancha te deja de vuelta en Marina Piccola, donde el capitán ha fondeado en 6 a 10 metros sobre arena. El almuerzo es a bordo, al ancla: los spaghetti alle vongole del chef o la pesca del día del mercado de Capri a la parrilla en la plancha de la cubierta de popa. La pasta junto al agua en Italia no es un cliché, es lo correcto. Tras el almuerzo, la plataforma de baño está abierta: snorkel por la base del acantilado, o deja que el capitán acerque la lancha a la Grotta Verde y a las cuevas marinas más pequeñas del lado sur que los barcos de excursionistas no alcanzan.

La tarde es para la Gruta Azul, si las condiciones lo permiten: una bajada en lancha en la boca de la cueva, en el lado noroeste de la isla, y una de las barcas de remos de madera de la gruta a través de la abertura de 80 centímetros. 18 € por persona, pagaderos en efectivo a los remeros, cerrada cuando hay oleaje. A última hora de la tarde, los barcos de día se han ido y la isla se serena. La cena la decides tú: Da Paolino bajo el emparrado de limoneros al pie del Monte Solaro (reservado con semanas de antelación en temporada alta), Mammà junto a la Piazzetta, o de vuelta al barco para una velada al ancla con los Faraglioni enmarcando la bañera.

Un corto salto de 5 millas náuticas al este te lleva de Capri a Nerano, la bahía enclavada tras la punta de la península de Sorrento y la capital del almuerzo de esta costa. El capitán fondea mar adentro en 8 a 15 metros de arena, y Lo Scoglio opera su propia lancha de madera desde los yates fondeados hasta su terraza al pie del pueblo, el mismo barco que hizo famoso Stanley Tucci en "Searching for Italy". El pedido está grabado en piedra: spaghetti alla Nerano (inventados en Maria Grazia, más abajo en la playa, pero la versión de Lo Scoglio es la que hace volver a la gente), pescado de barco de día a la parrilla, un Greco di Tufo de la bodega. Reservado con semanas de antelación en verano; el conserje guarda la mesa.

Tras el almuerzo, la plataforma de baño está abierta en la bahía de Recommone, justo al este de la playa principal, resguardada del tráfico de barcos y más tranquila que la propia Marina del Cantone. A media tarde, el capitán reposiciona para la travesía de 8 millas náuticas al este por la costa hasta Positano. La aproximación es el ángulo de Positano que la mayoría de las fotos de este pueblo no pueden captar desde tierra: el apilamiento de casas pastel cayendo en cascada hasta la Spiaggia Grande, la cúpula de Santa Maria Assunta con su azulejo de mayólica atrapando el sol de última hora, los acantilados cayendo en vertical a aguas lo bastante profundas como para que los yates cojan una boya en el campo de fondeo mar adentro que mantiene la cooperativa local.

Positano no tiene marina: los yates de hasta 50 metros cogen una boya a 300 o 400 metros de la costa y llevan a los huéspedes en lancha hasta el embarcadero de madera de la Spiaggia Grande. El capitán se coordina con la cooperativa a la llegada; las reservas importan en temporada alta. La cena esta noche es en tierra: La Sponda en Le Sirenuse por la sala con una estrella Michelin y su terraza de limoneros y velas (las reservas se abren con 60 días de antelación a las 15:00 hora de Italia y se agotan en minutos), o Zass en Il San Pietro, a un paseo en lancha al este de Positano, con su propio muelle privado a nivel del mar y un ascensor en el acantilado hasta el comedor. De vuelta a bordo en la boya hacia las 23:00, con las luces de Positano apiladas sobre la bañera.

El día más corto de la semana: una travesía de 5 a 6 millas náuticas al este por la costa, de Positano al pueblo de Amalfi. El tempo del capitán es lento a propósito. Salida a media mañana con los acantilados de Praiano y el puente de piedra arqueado sobre el Fiordo di Furore a estribor, y una posible parada de baño en la cala al este de Praiano si la mañana está tranquila. Marina Coppola, en Amalfi, admite yates de hasta 35 metros en 8 a 11 metros de agua: el amarre más resguardado de este tramo de costa, a diez minutos a pie de la catedral de Sant'Andrea, en lo alto de la plaza principal del pueblo.

Amalfi fue una república marítima en el siglo IX, a la par de Venecia, Pisa y Génova, con su propia moneda y red comercial por todo el Mediterráneo. La catedral, dedicada a San Andrés Apóstol (hermano de Pedro, uno de los doce), se alza en lo alto de 62 escalones de piedra sobre la plaza principal. Las reliquias se trajeron de Constantinopla en 1206 tras la Cuarta Cruzada y desde entonces están en la cripta, bajo el altar de la urna de plata. La fachada que ves ahora es una reconstrucción normando-árabe-bizantina de finales del siglo XIX; la catedral en sí tiene raíces en los siglos IX y X.

Ravello se asienta siete kilómetros acantilado arriba sobre Amalfi, a unos veinte minutos con chófer privado por las curvas de la SS373. Excursión de media jornada: lancha al embarcadero de Pennello a las 9:30, chófer por las revueltas, una hora en los jardines de Villa Rufolo (la villa de Wagner y Klingsor donde el Festival de Ravello se celebra cada verano desde 1953), y luego un corto paseo hasta Villa Cimbrone para el Belvedere del Infinito, la terraza al borde del acantilado bordeada de bustos de mármol que aparece en cada fotografía de Amalfi jamás tomada. Café en la Piazza Duomo, de vuelta al yate para un almuerzo a las 13:00, baño por la tarde, y cena en tierra en Eolo, en el paseo marítimo de Amalfi, o en Rossellinis del Palazzo Avino, de nuevo arriba en Ravello (una estrella Michelin), para los grupos que quieran alargar la velada en lo alto.

Un último desayuno pausado en cubierta a la sombra de la catedral de Amalfi, un baño final desde la plataforma de baño si la mañana es lo bastante cálida, y el capitán larga amarras para la travesía de 13 millas náuticas al oeste hasta Sorrento. La ruta abraza la costa, dejando la bahía de Salerno por la popa y los acantilados de Praiano y Conca dei Marini por la proa. La Marina Piccola de Sorrento se comparte con el muelle del ferry público; tu lancha te deja en el muelle de embarcaciones pequeñas y un paseo de cinco minutos cuesta arriba te pone en el casco antiguo para un último espresso al borde del acantilado en la terraza del Foreigners' Club.

Desde Sorrento es un cruce de 14 millas náuticas de vuelta por la bahía de Nápoles hasta Mergellina, con el Vesubio creciendo por la proa y el promontorio de Posillipo a estribor. La mayoría de las semanas, el capitán cubre este tramo durante el almuerzo a bordo: el plato de despedida del chef, una última copa de lo mejor de la bodega, y la silueta del Castel dell'Ovo enfocándose para cuando se retira el postre.

Desembarco en Mergellina a media tarde. La tripulación tiene el traslado organizado: directo a NAP para los huéspedes que vuelan ese mismo día, o a un hotel en Nápoles o de continuación a Roma con el Frecciarossa desde Napoli Centrale (poco más de una hora hasta Roma Termini). Las ruinas de Pompeya están a 30 minutos en coche de Mergellina si tu vuelo no sale hasta la tarde; muchos grupos hacen de Pompeya el día posterior al viaje en lugar del anterior. Tu capitán y tu chef bajarán del barco ya hablando de cuándo vuelves, que suele ser como terminan los buenos.